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Incidentally Clapham locksmiths gave me a good tip when fitting a new Euro, is to always use the bolt from the old lock (if at all possible). The old one is going to be the correct length, whereas the new one is going to be uncut/standard length, which means that it is just possible it could be too long, and go into the edge of any glazed panels, causing it to break.
 
Once in a blue moon out on a lock opener service job, I've come across the Euro cut-out in the lock case that is slightly too small/tight for the new lock to go into. I remember on one occasion getting a brand new Zone in about a third of the way, and it not wanting to go any further, in or out, even once a liberal dose of GT85 was applied, as well as a 'tap'  Wink with a hammer (wooden block in front of the lock first, of course). I ended up having to snap the bugge* to get it out, and ended up putting an alternative brand in, that was very slightly smaller, and just about went in.

I agree. Slacken and jiggle. Quite often it is much easier anyway just to loosen the handle retaining screws when I was replacing a euro cylinder as part of a key lock service. I usually tighten the cylinder retaining screw so it is almost tight (but the lock is still wobbly), then tighten the handle screws until they are almost tight and then check to see if the lock and mechanism are working correctly.

If it is I tighten the cylinder retaining screw and check again. If working, I then just tighten the handle retaining screws. Basically that way you allow the handles to find their own position, but check to make sure they are square.

I know what Clapham locksmiths mean about some euros not fitting I had a snap secure euro on a flat that wouldn't fit a eurospec sash case (SKS Active) didn't want to give it a tap in case it snapped off. Ended up prizing the opening slightly with screwdriver and tapping it with palm of hand and it went but so annoying.

Also check the retaining screw, if as rob says Popeye has tightened it too tight or left it slightly long and forced it in then the screw can be slightly bent.

Then when you put new cylinder in with old screw you will notice the cylinder moving side to side as the slightly bent screw is tightened in. This sometimes causes the cylinder to sit slightly in the wrong place once screw is tight forcing the edge of the cam against the inside edge of the backset, this makes the key stiff and can feel as if it's grinding when turning the key.
 
I'll be the first to own up to having to use an impact driver once or twice, to undo some 'Popeye' screws. The type you tap with a hammer, not the power-tool type. Sometimes I'll Dremmel a deep slot in, for a conventional screwdriver.

Sometimes the Boa Grabbit's work well too. If the screw head had been rounded, I take a posi 2 screw driver bit and hammer it a couple of times into the screw to make an impression. I then find full torque on fastest speed of cordless drill in reverse just as you apply full pressure into the screw, is the best way to remove tight cylinder retaining screws. This has always worked for us at Clapham locksmiths.

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