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Our locksmith repaired a lockable cabinet guys, this is a really clever lock in that you can change the lock to suit new key. I finally got a minute last night and today with some of the tools I brought at the show. The mauer varitator 2 in 1 pick being one of them, I made a chart and table and managed to pick it open, and then dial it in to open with the code and chart. Just thought I would share.
Had to repair a battered old floor safe yesterday. That looks very like super dreadnought safe , they were used a lot on Texacos and shell garages , the lock is unusual with the 2 pins that retract the bolts. The pin in the middle is a pain as it doesn't take much for it move and jam the thumbturn. Had a safe very similar circumstances that was seized solid because the house had flooded and everything was seized up. There have been a few posts here about old safes and their locks.

If anyone needs old safe locks, Morland locks in Bournmouth supplies around the world. The website has a few typical examples but stock is ever-changing. Old, serviceable safe and many other locks are kept, and a wide range of other locks and old/obscure keys.

Morland Locks have an encyclopedic knowledge of locks, and a wide stock, so try asking there. I'm sure others have had better service but the few times I've phoned them I've been let down. Several months later and he still hasn't bothered phoning me back.

Before we got a Unicode we used to get morlands to cut keys to code for us , very unreliable, they would say they can do the keys then they would never materialise.
Don't you just love it when somebody phones up and says I have a lockable cabinet that needs opening, it's not heavy, I can bring it to you I did wait till the lady was out the door before bumping it open, What was more worrying is the amount of jewellery in the safe including a Rolex.

Got one tonight. A Yale. Accepts code but won't open. Might be linkage or battery might not have enough puff to pull solenoid It's the battery. Punters won't have when you say that over the phone because they can put the code in.

What they don't know is for the solenoid to work it takes a lot more juice. I always keep a set of batteries in the van so I can get a sale out of it as well. Some models have 2 pimples on the front for you to put a 9v battery.

Never had chance to try a hammer as customer always present so always pick them, do you hit them on the top of the moulding above the handle or the top of the safe? Depends on the safe. If it has an off-set face then you can try hitting the top of that. If it has a flat face then just hit the top of the safe toward the front just like a lockable cabinet.

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