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Any ideas chaps at the locksmith Canning Town the key just spins on the outside won’t fit into the lock on the other side, once picked on the inside it only turns so far without going solid, It is a door in a school and as you said has an Adams rite lock case. Has the little disc thing that turns on the back of the screw in cylinder come loose (two little screws) which operates the lockcase.
Presumably you can't get to the other side of the door? If you can’t, have the screw in cylinder out with a pair of grips then you will be able to manipulate the lockcase to open. The grips will just shatter a little grub screw that can be replaced. I can access other side of door, it's a key way as well, and it’s a euro lock. If it is a euro and you can pick it you can use a hook pick to pick up the cam. It could be that the cylinder 'thinks' there is a key in one side so treat it like that. That’s what it sounds like anyway. The locksmith Canning Town was recently asked to service three old lever locks from an antique Sideboard, as the pin for the pipe key had fallen off one, the spring had broken in another, and we weren't too sure if there was a problem with the third, but I was asked to check it just to be on the safe-side. I'm sure these locks are 'Legges', and still available, but as the Sideboard was an heirloom, the Customer wished to retain the original locks.
I did a brief posting about servicing one of these a while back, but I've learned a lot since then, and took a few more photos as I went this time, so thought some may be interested to see what was involved. These locks are very basic, and consist of a back plate, the front plate, the bolt, one lever, a leaf spring, and two pins, - these being one for the pipe key to index on, and one that acts as a fulcrum for the lever, and the bolt to slide on. The pins that these pipe keys slide on to, have a tendency to come away from the back-plate over time, and can jam the lever. When this happens, once the pin is retrieved they can be opened either with the key resting on your thumb, or opening with wires.
The first picture was actually taken last, but it shows the lock assembled. The dark front plate of the lock fits into a recess inside the drawer, with the back plate being held flush inside, by the four screws. (Photo shows original key, and a spare that I hand-filed, as the 'decorative cuts' (which usually serve no purpose other than make the key appear more secure) were too narrow for my Cyclone 'Reader' to drop into. To dismantle, carefully punch the two slots on the reverse of the lock. Make sure it is supported well, and will not move. The locksmith Canning Town guy is using a Jewelers screwdriver here, as it's the correct width, and also just goes to show how light a tap is needed to remove the back. |
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