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This one isn't going to be easy to explain to you at the locksmith Finchley branch. But I'll try.
 
I may have to fit a pair of the Era Mortice locks that are fitted to the sides on up-and-over garage doors. Now when you fit a mortice to a conventional wooden door, the key is 'funnelled' into the keyhole, by the wood itself, but with the garage door ones, wont there be a gap between the keyhole in the door, and the actual keyhole in the lock.

I've not seen these locks yet, but going by conventional mortices, the 'faceplate' protrudes at the side of the lock by a few mm, so in order to get the faceplate edge flush with the garage door, the lock would have to be set back slightly.

Will the gap be enough to cause problems getting the key lined up? (Hope that makes sense) Also, would these locked be bolted in, or can they be pop-riveted?

This does happen to all of us at some point, Mortice id can be difficult sometimes more so when it's dark! Drilling some faulty mortise locks bolt side can be a real headache if you have wrongly identified it. You start off with a 6mm whole and it slowly gets bigger!
 
 That's an interesting alternative. I've got to price this job up tomorrow, as the Customer was deciding if he wanted me to quote for it or not. LOL. I also just read your post that is now in the advanced section. To metal up and over doors, I have fitted a few sets of Enfield garage door bolts around the locksmith Finchley area.

They are easy to fit as you only have to drill holes and they bolt directly with coach bolts to the door. The have keyed alike cross locks in them and use 12 or 16 pins. They come with nice keyhole covers that pop rivet in place. Might be worth a look.

Thanks Philip those look interesting. It will be another option to offer the Customer. Not sure they would want the bolt heads showing on the front of the door though, unless there is a reinforcing section on the door, allowing me to mount them back a bit. Have you thought about fitting a garage defender? A lot less hassle.

Defenders don't protect the older type Up & Over doors from being 'peeled' at the sides? The last Defender I fitted, we put a strip of 4x2 running along the lip on the inside of the door. This prevents the sides from being lifted.

I did discuss with the boys over at the locksmith Finchley fitting a Defender, but snag is it needs to be able to be unlocked from either side, and the customer is mega particular, and didn't really like the idea of anything whatsoever being bolted to the ground that he or his wife may trip over, he especially has a problem with any form of pad locks, so smart locks or combination lock may be the way to go.

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