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We at the locksmith Holborn shop don't like the sound of putting a lock back in the door with the case screws loose.  Might I suggest Loctite (or any make of jointing compound) on the screws, so that they stay as left - and will not not work any looser during use?

Just a bit of a update about this lock, I'm not fitting the lock just supplying to the customer, but I wasn't happy with it so with the customers consent I ordered a new one, on the cap of the new one.

There is label telling you that if you take the cap off it won't go back on properly unless you put a screwdriver into a hole in the top of the lock case depressing a spring which allows the lock case to fit flush, well lesson learnt and if anyone else comes across the problem you know what to do now.

P.S. the customer is more than happy to have a new lock. I for one don't have a Chubb door locks catalogue to hand, with a picture of the inside of the lock.

Could you perhaps post a picture of the inside? I can't remember having my hands on a horizontal model, at least not the modern one.

I think most of us when replying to this had assumed the cap plate was or had been fitted on correctly, (apart from Simon -well done) or you already knew about this little trick by depressing the spring.

I for one thought the lock was playing up with the cap fitted on correctly.
This was just the second one of these i have come across in over 10 years, on the first one approximately 8 years ago I changed the levers pack and didn't have this issue putting the cap back on.

Locksmith Holborn are probably on the correct lines, I felt the cap was on correctly but wouldn't tighten up due to handle screws squashing in the case. I didn't know about depressing the spring but how often does anyone come across these, like I said lesson learnt, you never stop learning in this job!

I went to open an internal door in a house leading into a study, I thought initially it was a 3G110 but the obvious handle to the left of the small key way means it can only be a 3J60. (over kill on an internal door but apparently the previous owner was bit of a looney)

The door is an bloomin old 18th century wooden door so I really don't want to be drilling it, customer is in no real hurry to get in the room so I've got a bit of time! Would the 3J60 have the same levers and design internally as the 110?

If yes I'm after the cheapest/best option for NDE, I say cheapest as in 18 months I've only seen 1 3G110! Currently looking at the CB pre lifter, SV pick & cam and the E3 pick n pin, I've watched the videos on here and they've been a real help but wanted to check I'm looking at the right options for the 3J60. Also looked at the locksmith Holborn videos for making a pre lifter from a key blank for Yale cylinder locks.

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