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According to the ocksmith Loughton man the followers are different. Changing this to another make is a pain due to handle fitting position on door. On the Staybrite doors it is reinforced with galvanised steel box so a right pain to fit new.

If you do Yale lockmaster watch out for the position of handles as yours looks like the handle will go way lower than the lock case. Buy one of each hand gearbox,  that way you have one for next time plus they are not the easiest thing to change the hand on.

you are lucky, the pic is the one now supplied as gearbox only (handing is a simple change of just 2 components, with gearbox laid out flat and latch facing left, remove lock cap, remove fork, remove latch clip, reverse latch and reassemble. 2 minute job)

The other version you have to cut the strip connectors on the replacement gearbox, similar to  the early old Milas, you can also only use 2 fixings, the top one picks up ok, the bottom one you have to drill or grind a slot in faceplate to get the machine screw through.

Have come across this problem a few times now but can't suss a real fix for it. On the YS170 composite door mechanism.

If you retract the hooks at high speed (pull down hard on handle) the bottom hook can sometimes rebound off the inside of its case and drop back out at 45 degrees under its own weight, thus jamming up next use.

The guy from the locksmith Loughton had the little hook casement off a few times and no visible fault. The only fix I can fathom is to fill it with some high viscosity grease to stop if shooting back out so easily. Failing that, with particularly heavy handed folk I have removed the bottom hook completely. Any idea why this happens or just a shit design?

Probably just a shit design, the only problems with some grease is that they attract lots of dirt which can sometimes make it worse, but as said remove bottom hook, that way no further problems.

I had one of these the other week composite door again the bottom hook was slightly bent so wasn't retracting straight and kept catching.

I don't know if you can do this with the Yale hook case but I had the same problem on a Fullex deadbolt not long ago and I found that when I turned just the case around, not the whole thing, the problem stopped.

I'm not exactly sure why this worked but I've just stored it away in the knowledge bank to try again in the future. Failing that and Deb's suggestion, is the hook bouncing off the back of its case because it's fitted to tightly into the door?

You could try chiseling a little out of the recess to see if that helps. Idk, just thinking on my seat I got a failed gearbox on the above lock and changed the gear box old style square cut out of the back.

Had a weird fault in that I had to file hooks a bit as they were bottoming out on the recess of the strip before fully extended. Locksmith Loughton guy left site all was working fine only to be called back on another gearbox fail. Stuck solid.

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