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Just an update from the 24 Hour Locksmith near me guys on the door. It is now open. The door was white powder coated aluminium, as was the frame, so no flex with the spreaders. There were adjustment screws top and bottom of the rear of the doors to give lift and lowering of the rollers, but also at the top and bottom of the front edge of the door.

This meant that whilst movement could be created at the rear of the door, none could be created at the front because the door was shut and the adjuster screws were inaccessible when the door was shut.

I tried lifting and lowering the door with a spreader, but minimal movement could be achieved and thus the bolts could not be moved. On the inside of the frame was a metal extrusion about 1.5inches thick which prevented access to the bolts from the inside. The euro was an ABS avocet so could not be removed.

Fortunately the door was from the house to the conservatory and the conservatory had 2 abs avocets fitted too. The customer said they intended having the patio doors removed anyway and so just wanted the doors open.

In the end I used a 1mm metal cutting wheel and cut 2 slits through the frame to remove the heads from the bolts and the door opened. The mechanism had failed, but was not accessible from the edge of the door as it had been fitted prior to the door being glazed. The glass did not have conventional beading fitted, but thin black rubber beading on both sides of the door.

One of those jobs where you just have to be methodical in your approach? I am sure that people will have had different ideas and methods to get the door opened, but the main thing is that you done it, and to the customers satisfaction. So well done to the chaps at the locksmith near me shop.

Just drill the fixing screws of the handle or go in from the other side. and remove the handles and drill some holes to release the spindle. When you say drill holes to release the spindle, the spindle was spinning freely and doing nothing. The push button was fully depressed and I did drill a hole within the handle foot print so that I could fully depress the button. Would you have drilled more holes in the door and through into the mechanism to try and free it.

Yes, not much you can do to replace a mechanism in one where it's been fitted at the factory. Sometimes it's not practical, or a one-man-job to get a large door like that, or even just the pane of glass out.

I think all us Upvc Lads have been there with these sorts of jobs. I'm still getting over my battle with that failed GU, and thinking of alternatives, but I think that's the nature of the job, and it keeps you at the top of the game to always look for new ways.

So next time you guys at the 24 Hour Locksmith near me get a failed one - and the customer does not want the frame cut - what would you do? Now you presumably have the lock in your possession, explore where to drill an exact hole to engage the sliding bar teeth with a specially homemade tool bent screwdriver perhaps. Post a pic for everyone to see so they can be forewarned of what's required to open a jammed one. I presume it was a shlegel?

Good idea. Maybe we should start a thread in the advanced section, for drill points for failed mechanisms, though some of the problem may be identifying some of the mechanisms on the door. What do people think? How useful would this be? I've had a lot fail with bits breaking through out of the back end of the gearbox Fullex, mainly, so I'm not sure you'd be able to drill that piece off within the handle-footprint. There is always a way 24 Hour Locksmith near me, it's just finding it.

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24 Hour Locksmith Near Me Car Residential Commercial

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