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Locksmith NW1 got a call today for a euro change, when I went to take out retaining screw it wouldn’t come out, felt like the screw was bent, so snapped the lock screw came out bent, changed lock but when I lifted handles to test they wouldn’t budge.

Took out retaining screw & it works fine, if you look through the hole on face plate when in the unlocked position there’s an identical hole in the arm which is connected to gear box but when you lift handle this moves down & blocks off face plate hole, took out mpl.

The long bent screw had pushed the back of centre case out, but still seemed to work o.k. I'm totally stumped on this, it’s a Yale G712H page 197 duffells cat, you can just see the hole in picture (locked position) any one had this before had to leave the job without retaining screw, mpl works & door locks but it’s not right.
 The retaining screw is a grub type screw and you use an allen key if you have not got one file or grind the head down on a normal screw so that it goes through the top face strip this should solve the problem. Hope this makes sense.

If it's a screw type and not the grub screw type like locksmith NW1 guys mentions, then when you put in the screw you need to ensure the handles are pulled down to disengage the bolts, rollers etc when you put the screw in.
 
If you look into the hole where the screw goes to secure the cylinder, and move the handles up and down, you will see the mechanism sliding up and down. If you put the screw in with the mechanism engaged, you will screw up against it and seize it. Hence the handles will become dead.

I think it must be as suggested as a screw only goes in, in unlocked position (handles down) normally there’s a groove in the mechanism not a hole which would slide up & down & wouldn’t affect the screw, so must have to go through both face plate & mechanism to retain cylinder, never had this before any idea where to get the grub screws.
The first time I encountered these i used a normal screw cut the head off and cut a flat groove to screw it in. job done, now I carry a grub screw that's the norm for the Yale MPL's and also most of the Everest that use Yale.
 
Off the top of my head I think the grub screws are M3's for a standard cylinder. You could also do what Rick mentions which works okay as well, but just watch you don't lose the screw down the door.

What's thrown me on this job is the usual problem, the lying customers phoned me yesterday to book a euro change in her lunch break, everything looked normal, screw in face plate.

Only when I tried to get it out there were problems said she had to prop a chair against door last night as it wouldn’t lock I think some ones forced a screw in thinking same as me & its jammed the mechanism as it has with me, but then  locksmith NW1 when you ask them no one's ever touched the lock.
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