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I think locksmith Poplar after 5mins of playing with the cylinder, you tend to know if it's the culprit or not, and generally it's better to have the cylinder out, so you have the hole to play with rather than try and preserve it and make things hard for yourself.

If I'm in any doubt, and feel that I have destroyed a perfectly good cylinder, then I give the Customer the replacement free of charge.
 
Next time you're in this position, try the following method, but make sure you have the parts with you beforehand naturally.
 
Firstly, remove the handles. Then place an 'old handle' over the spindle, - doesn't need to be bolted in place. Then put a piece of pipe over the handle, - I use the pipe on a spreader bar handle, with the rubber end removed and slip this over the 'old handle'.

Then gently apply downwards pressure, slowly increasing, using the extra leverage that the spreader bar handle allows.

Sometimes an up and down motion works to free it up too. I've used this method a few times now and it's been very effective, and it's a great alternative when pushed.

Sometimes it helps to place another spreader under the door, and gently push up and down on that with your foot, while applying pressure to the elongated door handle.
 
My feeling is that locksmith Poplar is right, that you're usually battling against part of the mechanism bursting out of the rear of the lockcase, and essentially this part usually needs breaking, to release the hooks etc.

The way I check a lock is, does the key turn 360 degrees if yes the problem is the top part of the lock (the latching part) the common locks for this problem are Fuhr and GU Ferco.

The ones with bottom problems are ERA and Winkhaus these are the ones I drill just above the dead bolt and fish the broken parts out, if you have to snap the euro it`s part of the job, if it`s a lock out sometimes you have to take the handles as well sorry no free bees here.

I use an old handle with a pipe for extra leverage for the latch problem doors. Another lock that gives problems is the Safeware and Lockmaster twin spindle locks they are very simple to open drill a hole 68 mm up as they are usually 68/92 and use the bottom spindle to open
 
This is a photo of a lock I changed today a GU with latch with 3 dead bolts there is no way this door would have spread enough to clear the dead bolts, the woman opened the door by removing the handles and using an adjustable spanner to force the spindle down. There is NO need to use force to spread a door I just spread far enough to get access to the roller etc.

That photo is typical of a lot of the ones I am asked to see to. I also see Fullex lockcases with the guts out the back too. (Is the hole on the left of the photo, the hole you've drilled to access the 68mm Follower?) The ones I see that have a 68mm Follower, usually have a pad handle on the outside, and that's the one that's usually gone, but locksmith Poplar you can always try the 92mm Follower too.

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