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Locksmith SE16 guy tried the letter box first, then pop open with spreader. It’s a mystery to me. Well you'd engage the cam first, but you'd need to make sure you're not crossing the shear line when you try and rotate the cam.

If it looks like you're approaching the 'dangerous' point, plug-spin it to the other side, and then carefully rotate it back using a pick, while trying to pick-up the cam.
 
If it had a letterbox, and the key was on the inside, there are ways to pretty much guarantee it should be a 2 min opening. Perhaps you should have looked at what the front door was once you got them in thru the back for future ref! It could have been a GU fastlock.

Keywind or not is incidental to your not picking the cam up, as its irrelevant what type of mechanism the cylinder passes thru and you can tell any keywind mechanism by the fact the handles cannot be lifted up well done on picking the Gege cylinder.

Plus if you had the sidewinder you could have just turned the inside key yeah I must invest in one of them, looks like a good bit of kit to have. Just finished a job where the multipoint lock was fitted to the door prior to fitting the complete unit, the lock is an Era multi point lock with two security hooks fitted to a wooden door.

So the locksmith SE16 guy said the door closes ok if a little stiff due to the draft excluders, the lock mechanism is smooth but every second time the cylinder will stick and wont lock until you hold the handle fully upright, of cause you lift the handle up to throw the hooks and this allows the cylinder to turn, throwing the bolt, the thing is the mechanism doesn’t always lift enough to allow the cam to move.

The mpl has 2 black studs that slide in a slot and you can tell if the mechanism has been thrown enough, my first thought was the hook keeps were out of alignment or not routered enough so I removed them so no avail, (replace afterwards of cause) I gave it a good spray with GT85 but still the same,

I did notice if the latch is pushed in slightly the mechanism will throw but the cylinder won’t turn until the latch is fully out, on the bottom photo you can see the latch has scratch marks on it but it’s not sticking.

For now they are locking the door by holding the handle up fully, I am returning there to fit a better cylinder next week, any ideas just to add I have tried it with the door open and it does throw every other time, closed its hit or miss, but mainly doesn’t allow the cam to turn.

I would check the spindle, follower and handles for wear perhaps? If the spindle isn't a nice snug fit through the follower and into the handles it will cause the mechanism not to fully operate, and allow the cylinder to turn all the time?
Doors too tight slightly increase the latch tightness and back off the pressure on the hooks, Also the locksmith SE16 guy checked that the hooks were not binding on the bottom of the keeps or top.

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